Kochi Muziris biennale and other bits

The main focus of our trip to Kochi was the biennale, and our overall experience has definitely surpassed the first one of two years ago. As with any biennale the fringe shows add a frisson of individuality. 

We have had the opportunity to meet so many artists, including my hero Ranbir Kaleka who combines painting and video on the same surface, hear Vanessa Branson talk about the biennale in Marrakech, but maybe the most interesting discussions have been with the volunteers. 

These guys work with individual artists for three or four months while they are creating their works here, and then stay on as guides for the visitors. They give a great insight the working practice of each individual artist.

Kochi books, where Charlie has his small exhibition has become like a second home. It is one of those places where people call in, browse and stay and chat for hours on end! 

Vimal has become a close friend, he seems to know everyone! We have learnt more about Indian culture and politics than ever before. 

A billboard outside the biennale ticket office also became the site for Charlie's first pop up exhibition! Small digital prints were white tacked to the wall and up for grabs. Even a rickshaw driver stopped to look and then explained the event to passers by!

Munroe magic

Munroe island is a palm paradise by the Kallada river the backwaters east of Kollam. The island is named after Col. John Munro who was Resident of the East India Company there around 1815, and instrumental in the land reclamation that created the island.

A rather unsettling arrival at our homestay, the only one for miles around as they are building a new outdoor kitchen! 

In front of out idyllic little house they are knocking nails out of wood, mixing cement and cutting wire with an extremely noisy angle grinder. Alongside this there is a sound track of music and stories of Krishna blaring from the temple in celebration of its ancient birthday. 24/7... well almost! 

Up early for a canoe trip, very peaceful, drifting temple music in the air. Chai stop, and then as far as the edge of Astamudi  lake. We pass tiger prawn farms, netted to stop theft! Amazing birds, the flash of turquoise as a kingfisher darts from tree to tree, cormorants, Brahman kites, and below, water snakes and jelly fish as the sea water mixes with the sweet.

We have to duck down down in the boat going under the tiny bridges that link the village houses, yoga says the boatman! 

After an amazing Thali lunch with beetroot chappatis, Vijesh takes us for a village walk. We wander through the locals vegetable and flower gardens, butterfly peas, spore prints from ferns, red ants from leaf nests which he offers as a treat.

We see cashew processing, grueling hard labour, no wonder they are so expensive, chai stop and the tiny tea shop man makes us porotas...hand made is an apt expression. Bidi rolling and betel next...Vijeesh asks if we would like a mocktail. I suspect it will be toddy, but he mixes lime juice, ginger, glucose and soda, stirred with a green chilli! Strong stuff!

Early the next morning we go to the local temple festival where the women from the village have come to cook payasam aka ambrosia, food for the gods in celebration of the temples birthday. Athira and her mum have been up since 4.30 in preparation.

Around 800 women all in rows with a traditional chatty on firewood, ready to receive the  flame from the temple. In minutes the air is filled with smoke, the water starts to boil, rice, cardamom, cinnamon and jaggary are added and the stirring begins.
Athira and her mum come back to serve breakfast we taste the nectar!

The day ends watching the sunset over lake Astamudi and elephants at another village temple!

Next morning the builders return :( but we escape to a rooftop terrace, where in between the dulcet sounds of an angle grinder we can hear birdsong!