Beach bums

Benaulim is a sleepy spread out village, set back from the beach, and a welcome relief after our Costa packet experience further north. 

However a rather unwelcoming start from the German manager of the guesthouse who accused us of being late ( yes Indian trains do sometimes run late) and having too much luggage. It might have helped if the guesthouse actually had a sign outside! Our over zealous rickshaw driver drove miles down different lanes trying to locate it, even though I kept saying stop no it's not down here! 

Here there is a different expat tribe...British pensioners who rent for 'the season' to save on heating bills and avoid the worst of the winter. Who can blame them, but they are a different breed to the 'Longtimer' hippies we met from Arambol. 

Three days later we are driven south by Dominique in a battered old jeep to Agonda for our beach hut escape! He kept us enthralled throughout the journey with his tales from his days as a cook on cruise ships all over the world. The changing landscape through little villages, over wide rivers and into the depths of cashew forests showed us another beautiful side of Goa.

Swimming in the Arabian Sea early in the morning was blissful, pale sea and sky merging into one like a sheet of glass. 

Shady beach bars with low tables where you can laze all day drinking mango lassi. After dusk the restaurants exchange sun beds for tables with candles for dinner on the beach.

Our third beach hut on stilts was probably the nicest...but it was so rickety it felt as if you were at sea. Set under the trees you could sit for hours watching the wildlife, someone left the gate open and in the early morning a herd of cows came wandering through, munching the garden for breakfast.

We returned to Benaulim for three days, this time to the old time Mango Grove guesthouse. Farmstay would be a more apt name...pigs rolling in the dust, no need for an early morning call with the rooster strutting around the grounds. Dirt cheap rooms with a balcony facing the little road, but hot water powered by solar panels!

We chatted with Mr Caetano originally a seaman, both sons away at sea on cruise ships. He has owned the guesthouse since the 70's, old school, wary of booking.com, but woe betide anyone who doesn't honour their reservation. 

Next day we go next door to look for wifi and breakfast and stumble across a beautiful garden resort with pool. 

Such a contrast, and when we later meet the delightful owner, who speaks to me in Portuguese, he explains his philosophy of providing an oasis for his guests, who again have been returning year after year. But unlike his next door neighbour he has invested and renovated his house on the sand.

We talk about Goan history and his memory of the hand over from Portugal to India. He felt Nehru betrayed the Goan people, and that 90% of Goans would prefer to be independent rather than part of India.