We’re back in Fort Cochin on the 1st of January with the Cochin Carnival in full swing. It’s the first time we’ve been to Kochi with no biennale but we hit the ground running with the inauguration of a long established art gallery, Dravidian, opening in a new location. Still spaced out with jet lag we were asked to give a sound bite on what we thought of the exhibition. It was so lovely to meet up with our long lost friend Nijeena who we haven’t seen in 8 years!
The next day the crazy carnival parade came down our road and Thomas, who used to run the tea stall at the roundabout, invited us up on to his balcony to watch!
It’s been easy to settle back into life here, waking early to the morning chorus of birds and the call to prayer from the nearby mosque.
I was on a mission to find a a pool to swim in…thwarted at first because I didn’t have the exact change to pay for a cap but later went back to my old haunt at the Tea Bungalow, until I discovered the beautiful pool at the old colonial Cochin Club!
The promenade is still full of sparkling lights and little stalls selling trinkets and amazing food…corn on the cob, spiral potatoes, ice creams galore and I’ve stocked up on my favourite Himalayan flower perfume. While I was negotiating a price a crow swooped down and stole half my ice cream!
Kochi is a serendipitous place where we’ve met such interesting travellers… a young couple taking a 6 month ‘long weekend’ from work in London, another pair from the island of Reunion, musicians coming here to visit their tabla and kalaripayttu teachers.
We’ve reconnected with Nijeena and seen Thomas installed in a brand new tea shop next door to Loafers cafe where we exhibited many years ago.
We’ve been here so many times the rickshaw drivers recognise us and give us free rides home!
Aaron’s Homestay is like a home from home, watching the sun rise and set on the roof terrace with his collection of orchids.




